“Our second day’s trek initially brought us very steeply downhill, our packs conspiring to push us ever faster down the sinuous path to the main river valley, which we then followed upriver, sometimes steeply, usually gradual climbing next to the glacial torrent thundering away on our left.
The trail led through dense, moist and shadowy woodland on the North facing slope of this East-West trending valley, but baked brown and bare on the South facing slopes, dotted with trees and even the occasional succulent. About 5.30 in the afternoon we came to a metal bridge over the main river, with cracked, broken and decaying planks across the 30 metre drop into the frothing icy water.
It made us quite nervous, but we had to cross anyway as we saw our path snaking away on the other side. So late in the evening, with dark creeping up the valley and cold air coming down, we were dismayed to find the 2 lodges near the bridge to be dark and dingy places, mere bamboo matting for walls and sited in very damp places. We decided to keep on climbing and came to the steepest section yet, with recently trodden routes across last monsoon’s landslides.. . . Read more